Hi. My name is David.
I am the President of Affordable Kitchens and Bathrooms, and this is our Blog.
Ask David! is a way for you to ask questions and get answers about home improvement and remodeling straight from the professionals.
If you have a question, simply leave a comment.
Keeping Stainless Stain Free
Posted by David in General Home Improvement, Kitchen Remodeling on August 12th, 2010
David, I love my stainless steel sink, but it seems like there is constantly a residue or visible spots on it. Is there any way to keep it looking new? Thanks —Deborah
Although stainless steel is resistant to stains, it certainly is not stain proof. In fact, what makes ‘stainless’ steel different from other types of steel is a higher level of the element chromium. The elevated level of chromium makes the metal resistant to corrosion, not necessarily ‘stainless’ in the traditional sense.
So—the goal is to keep it clean without abusing and scratching the surface. Believe it or not, you don’t need fancy or hard to find cleaning products. To clean your stainless steel:
- Start with plain white vinegar and a clean cloth.
- If you need a little more scrubbing power, sprinkle baking soda over then surface, then scrub.
- For tougher jobs, try 3 parts cream of tartar with 1 part hydrogen peroxide and then using a damp cloth scrub the sink and let dry, then rinse with hot water.
To help reduce spots and stains, rub the sink with baby oil or olive oil and then remove excess with a dry cloth. This helps reduce the exposure of the metal surface to air.
Thanks Deborah
—David
Registered Heat
Posted by David in General Home Improvement on May 5th, 2010
Historic or period homes are always interesting to work on. Often, we encounter details that provide character and function, but these details can be a challenge to replace or restore. Heating registers are one of the features of historic homes, that over time, have lost their appeal and importance in the home building process. However, the durability and aesthetic value of older, molded and cast heating registers really add personality to a room. Getting those registers back into “showroom” condition takes a little doing.
If you need an additional register, there are a number of sources online. Re-finished originals will be the most expensive and hard to find, but there are a number of reproduction registers and grates available. Try these websites out if you’re looking to match or add to the existing registers in your home:
- WhiteRiverSalvage.com
- RusticConnection.com
- Antiques.lovetoknow.com
- Rejuvination.com
- MissionMetalworks.com
- Beaux-Artes.com
Another option is to refinish the ones you have. This can be dangerous, since most painted grates were probably originally finished with lead-based paint. If your grates are a finished metal surface, you can probably do them a lot of good with a simple soft wire brush, some elbow grease and a good wadding polish like Nevr Dull. The effort will be worth it.
Bathroom Fans
Posted by David in Bathroom Remodeling on April 6th, 2010
This question comes from Alice, who had a problem with her bathroom fan.
My bathroom fan sounds like a garbage disposal, can it be fixed and is it really urgent?
Sorry to say, but if the bathroom fan is growling at you, you probably need a new one. What you are hearing is most likely the motor that drives the fan that blows the moist air out of your bathroom or the bearings that make the fan spin smoothly. In either case, when parts of an electric motor age, they may lose lubrication or can be affected by moisture by way of a worn gasket or seal.
When looking for a new fan, be sure it accommodates the proper air volume for the size of your bathroom. Ideally, your fan should be completely changing over the air in you bathroom 5 or six times an hour. To figure that out:
Just do a quick measurement of your bathroom before you go to the hardware store.
- Multiply the width of your bathroom by the length and then multiply that number by the height of your ceiling—this is the “cubic feet” of your bathroom.
- Multiply this number by eight (this is then the number of times we are wanting the air to change)
- Divide that number by 60 (to determine the Cubic Feet per Minute)
With that target volume in hand, it is just a matter of how much quiet you want to pay for. The sound of fans are measured in Sones, so the fewer the Sones, the quieter the fan… and the bigger the price tag.
Another feature I suggest looking at is a timer. Different fans may use different methods, but in general, it is best to leave a fan running after the shower or bath in order to completely exhaust all of the moist air from the room. Simply shutting off the fan when you leave the room traps hot, moist air, which could damage cabinets, woodwork or promote mold.
As far as difficulty goes—If you’re comfortable installing a ceiling fan or light fixture, you can probably handle this project on your own. If not, let us know and we’ll point you in the right direction.
Thanks,
David
A Clogged Tub Drain
Posted by David in Bathroom Remodeling on March 18th, 2010
Hey Dave, I have a bathtub drain that is constantly clogged. I have tried chemical un-cloggers and nothing has seemed to work. Are there any simple ways I can fix this without calling a plumber?
Thanks Sara.
There are a couple methods you could try before making that phone call, and it sounds like you have already ready covered the first. There are three common methods to attack a slow or clogged bathtub before calling in the professionals.
- Chemical Drain Cleaner
Since bathtub drains are usually covered with a screen or strainer, what is probably doing the damage is either hair, soap, or some other type of sediment. The chemical cleaners are designed break down and dissolve the clog. Chemicals are caustic, and can be harmful, so use eco-friendly versions when available. - Plunger
Just like your toilet, the tub can be plunged too. However, since the tub also has an overflow drain, (sometimes a few inches below the faucet), you will need to plug or seal the overflow drain to create a proper seal for the bottom drain when you begin to plunge. - Snake
A snake uses the same principle as a coat hanger, but it is a bit more heavy duty and designed specifically for this problem (Home Depot). Essentially, a drain snake is a long coil that is unwound down the drain, scrubbing and clearing the pathway as it moves.
If none of these methods work, you should call a plumber. It will be worth it in the end knowing you have not damaged anything that could make the problem worse, and you know it will be done right.
To keep your drain clear, make sure you use a strainer over the drain that will catch any unwanted hair down the drain. You can also pour some boiling water down the drain once a month, or so, to help dissolve any oils or greases you may have washed off your body in the shower or tub.
Hope this helps Sara—and thanks for the question.
David
A Shovel Full of Driveway
Posted by David in General Home Improvement on February 20th, 2010
While making our AKB home enhancements, we often have to park our trucks or trailers in out of the way locations in order to prevent damage to a driveway or landscaping. This reminds me of the damage a lot of us do to our driveways in the winter by shoveling and improper salting. Here are a few tips to reduce the impact of getting the unwanted off of your driveway this winter:
- Plastic
Using a plastic shovel instead of a metal one might not only save your back, but a few years on your driveway too. Metal shovels can easily chip and gouge, making existing or small cracks wider. Cracks are the enemy. Once water freezes in a crack it expands, further separating and possibly breaking the stone. The edge on a plastic shovel is a little more forgiving. - Pavers
If your driveway is surfaced with paving stones, be careful not to dig your shovel or snow blower into any stones that may have risen or shifted during the freeze. In the fall, give your driveway a good walk over and try to take care of any problem stones before the freeze, tamping down any raised stones or replacing cracked ones. - Concrete
Instead of plain rock salt, consider using a less damaging de-icer like Calcium Chloride. Also, if your driveway is concrete, make sure to seal it every three to five years. - Gravel
For gravel driveways, it’s actually better to shovel when it’s the coldest. When snow begins to melt and moisten the surface of the gravel driveway, it is easy to pick up some of the smaller material that acts as a binding agent to some of the larger rocks. Shoveling when everything is frozen helps prevent that. - Snowblowers
For those using a snow blower—keeping the blades about a half-inch from the surface will prevent any major damage, while still clearing out the bulk of the snow, regardless of your driveway’s surface.
Kitchen Remodel: Recap
Posted by David in Kitchen Remodeling on January 31st, 2010
A follow up to our first video series.
Home Show Promo
Posted by David in General Home Improvement on January 23rd, 2010
2010 Indianapolis Home Show
Posted by David in General Home Improvement on January 11th, 2010
Kitchen Remodel: Episode 2
Posted by David in Kitchen Remodeling on November 16th, 2009
In our second installment, we hear from Ryan, the project manager, as the old kitchen is removed in order to make way for the new one.
Stay tuned for Episode 3!


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